Japanese Nanakusa Seven Spring Herbs and January 7 Tradition

Ingredients

• 300 g Japanese short-grain white rice, rinsed
• 2.1 litres cold water, 1:7 ratio with rice by volume
• 1 piece (10 cm) kombu, wiped clean
• Seven nanakusa herbs
• 1 small bunch seri (Japanese parsley, Oenanthe javanica), very finely chopped
• 1 small bunch nazuna (shepherd's purse, Capsella bursa-pastoris), very finely chopped
• 1 small bunch gogyo (cudweed, Gnaphalium affine), very finely chopped
• 1 small bunch hakobera (chickweed, Stellaria media), very finely chopped
• 1 small bunch hotokenoza (henbit, Lamium amplexicaule), very finely chopped
• 1 small head suzuna (turnip, Brassica rapa), greens and root, very finely chopped
• 1 small piece suzushiro (daikon radish, Raphanus sativus), very finely chopped
• 1 pinch fine salt, light seasoning only
• To serve
• 4 umeboshi (pickled plum), one per bowl, placed in the centre

Method

1. 1
   Place the rinsed rice and the kombu in a heavy-based pot with the cold water — 2.1 litres to 300 g rice, a strict 1:7 ratio by volume. Begin from cold water; this slow starch release produces a creamier, more cohesive porridge. Bring to the boil over medium heat, then remove and discard the kombu.
2. 2
   Reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting. Partially cover the pot, leaving a gap for steam to escape. Cook, stirring occasionally to prevent the rice from settling and scorching, until the grains are fully swollen, softened, and the porridge flows easily and thinly when the pot is tilted — roughly 40 to 50 minutes. This is the 1:7 okayu: it should be significantly thinner and more liquid than everyday porridge. If it thickens beyond a loose, flowing consistency, it has reduced too far.
3. 3
   Remove the pot from the heat entirely. Add all seven finely chopped nanakusa herbs and stir gently through the porridge. Cover the pot and allow the residual heat to wilt the herbs for one to two minutes only. The herbs must not cook; they require only brief wilting. They should retain a fresh, spring-green colour.
4. 4
   Season with a single pinch of fine salt. Taste: the porridge should be clean and delicate, with no assertive saltiness. Ladle into four warmed bowls and place one umeboshi at the centre of each serving. The bowl should smell of fresh spring greens over a clean, starchy base.