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1
Cook the short-grain rice by the absorption method. While still hot, turn it into a wide, non-metallic vessel. Dissolve the sugar and salt in the rice vinegar, then fold the seasoned vinegar through the rice using a cutting motion, fanning to cool simultaneously. The rice is ready when it is glossy, just above room temperature, and each grain holds its shape without clumping.
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2
Bring a pot of unsalted water to a full boil. Add the abura-age and blanch for two minutes, pressing them occasionally to ensure contact with the water. Drain and, when cool enough to handle, press firmly between your palms to expel the oil-laden water. The blanching water will show a visible oil slick — this is the excess that would otherwise prevent broth absorption and produce greasy pouches.
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3
Cut each blanched abura-age piece across one short edge. Insert two fingers into the cut and gently separate the fried layers to open a pocket without tearing the walls. The pouch should open cleanly along its seam.
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4
Combine the dashi, soy sauce, mirin, and sugar in a wide, shallow pan and bring to a gentle simmer. Add the opened abura-age pouches in a single layer. Lay a drop lid (otoshibuta) or a sheet of baking paper directly on the surface. Simmer over a low flame, turning the pouches once, until the broth is almost entirely absorbed and the pan shows only a glaze. This is where the dish lives or dies: if the broth is not fully absorbed, the pouches will be wet and the sushi rice will turn mushy on filling; if the heat is too high and the broth scorches before absorption is complete, the sweetness burns and the tofu toughens.
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5
Remove the pouches from the pan and allow them to cool fully to room temperature. Once cool, hold each pouch at the open end and press gently but firmly from the closed end toward the opening to expel residual moisture. The pouch should feel damp but not wet, and should yield under gentle pressure without breaking.
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6
If using sesame or shiso, fold them through the cooled sushi rice now. Moisten your hands lightly. Take a small, compact handful of rice (approximately 30–35 g) and shape it into a gentle oval. Open the pouch and place the rice inside, pressing lightly so it fills without stretching the pouch walls. The abura-age should close over the rice without force. For Kanto style, leave the opening facing upward with rice level at the rim. For Kansai style, fold the corners inward and invert so the seam faces down. The pouch must not be overfilled — it should close easily.
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7
Arrange the finished inari sushi on a platter or pack for transport. They are served and eaten at room temperature. The simmered abura-age should be soft, yielding, and faintly glossy; the rice should be perceptibly acidic against the sweet-savoury pouch. Inari sushi holds four to six hours at room temperature without loss of quality.