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1
Beat the eggs vigorously with a fork, incorporating air throughout, so the trapped air expands in the hot oil and gives the finished omelette its puffed centre and light interior rather than a dense, flat mass. Add fish sauce at the ratio of 1 tsp per 2 eggs, a generous pinch of white pepper, and the sliced spring onion if using. Beat again until the mixture is fully combined and slightly aerated — the surface should carry a light foam.
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2
Heat 3–4 tablespoons of neutral oil in a 30 cm wok over high heat until the oil reaches 185–190°C, because oil below this temperature will not set the egg fast enough to form the lacy, crisp frill the dish demands. The oil is ready when a drop of the egg mixture dropped from low height produces an immediate, violent crackling explosion — not a gentle sizzle. A gentle sizzle means the oil is too cool; do not proceed.
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3
Pour the beaten egg mixture in one motion from a height of 20–30 cm above the wok surface, so the force of impact spreads the egg thin at the edges where it contacts the near-smoking oil and sets into a golden-brown lacework almost instantly, while the thicker centre remains pale gold and slightly yielding. This is where the dish lives or dies: the correct height of pour into oil at the correct temperature is the only means by which the lacy, crisp frill — the preparation's visual and textural signature — is produced. Pour from too low, or into insufficiently hot oil, and the result is a flat, uniformly thick omelette with no lace.
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4
Immediately tilt the wok or use a spatula to fold the thicker centre of the omelette so that all exterior surfaces contact the hot oil, ensuring the centre colours and crisps rather than steaming itself pale. Fry for 60–90 seconds. The underside is ready when it is deep golden and the edges are visibly brown-laced and set hard at the perimeter.
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5
Turn the omelette once and fry the second side for 30 seconds. Remove from the oil. The finished omelette is golden, irregular at the edges, slightly puffed at the centre, with a glossy surface — pressed lightly at the edge, it produces an audible crunch; the centre yields without resistance.