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1
Prepare the mountain item and the sea item separately, each calibrated to 3–4 bites in volume. Neither preparation should be warm enough to steam nor cold enough to chill the cedar; both should be at a temperature that allows plating without immediate moisture transfer to the wood. The mountain item is complete when it holds its shape at tray scale without crowding more than one-third of the tray surface.
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2
Set the uncoated cedar tray on the work surface. Confirm it is dry; any surface moisture will mark the unfinished wood permanently and alter the forest aroma the material is intended to contribute. The tray should carry a faint cedar scent — this is correct and intended.
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3
Place the mountain item and the sea item on the tray asymmetrically, following diagonal arrangement — one item does not mirror the other in position or height. This is the step on which the dish lives or dies: if the two items share the same category (both from sea, or both from land), the philosophical pairing that defines the hassun is broken and the course ceases to be hassun; if the seasonal colour palette of the items contradicts the current season, the compositional statement the course exists to make is lost. The arrangement is complete when the two items occupy different visual axes on the tray and the negative space of the cedar remains visible between them.
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4
Add the seasonal colour garnish in a position that completes the odd-numbered asymmetric composition without filling the negative space. The garnish should confirm the seasonal palette — not introduce a second season. The composition is resolved when the eye moves across the tray diagonally rather than settling symmetrically.
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5
Present the tray to the guest. The host pours sake into o-choko at this moment and joins the guests — the hassun is the most social course of the kaiseki sequence. The course is complete when both mountain and sea items have been consumed and sake has been exchanged; the cedar tray is removed without replacement before the subsequent lacquered-vessel courses proceed.