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1
Pull the boneless chicken thighs into irregular 3–4 cm pieces by hand rather than cutting — the torn, uneven surfaces provide more crevices for the potato starch to grip. Combine the soy sauce, sake, mirin, grated ginger and grated garlic in a bowl. Add the chicken, turn to coat, cover and refrigerate for a minimum of 30 minutes; 2 hours is optimal. The marinade will penetrate approximately 3 mm into the flesh, forming an intensely flavoured layer beneath the eventual crust. The marinade is fully absorbed when the surface of the chicken has taken on a uniform, deep amber colour.
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2
Remove the chicken from the marinade and drain thoroughly — set the pieces on a rack or paper and press gently. Excess marinade left on the surface will turn the potato starch into a wet paste that steams rather than fries. The surface should feel tacky but not visibly wet before dredging.
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3
Heat the oil to 160°C. Working in batches, dredge each piece of chicken in potato starch immediately before it enters the oil — a light, even coat; shake off any excess. The starch should barely adhere. Lower the pieces into the oil and fry for 2–3 minutes. At this temperature the chicken cooks through without significant surface colouring. Remove and rest on a clean rack for exactly 3 minutes. The pieces are ready for the rack when they are just firm to the touch and the surface is set but pale.
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4
Raise the oil to 180–190°C and maintain it there throughout the second fry — this is where the dish lives or dies. The rested, pre-cooked pieces enter the hot oil and immediately produce a more violent sizzle than the first fry, as the partially dried potato starch coating reacts aggressively with the very hot oil. Within 60–90 seconds this sizzle quiets slightly and gives way to a deeper, crackling note — Maillard development is under way. Fry for 1–2 minutes total. At insufficient temperature the crust remains pale and soft; if the temperature is correct and the first fry was complete, the interior is fully protected from overcooking. Remove when the surface is deep gold and the sound has settled into a steady, dry crackle.
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5
Drain the pieces briefly on a rack — not paper, which traps steam and softens the base. Serve immediately. The finished crust is thinner and more paper-like than a panko or tempura crust; each bite should fracture it into very small, sharp fragments. Any softness in the crust indicates either insufficient second-fry temperature or inadequate draining before dredging.