Kari debal: Kristang Devil's Curry technique

Ingredients

• For the rempah debal (curry paste)
• 80 g dried red chilies, soaked in warm water, drained
• 40 g galangal, peeled, roughly chopped
• 2 stalks lemongrass, white part only, roughly sliced
• 500 g rempah paste, total blended weight of all paste components above
• 30 ml white vinegar, added mid-fry, not at the end
• For the curry
• 2 tsp white mustard seeds, whole; yellow/white, not black
• 3 tbsp neutral cooking oil
• 800 g cooked meats, pork, chicken, or sausage — preferably previous day's roast; cut into serving pieces
• 1 tsp salt, to taste

Method

1. 1
   Soak the dried red chilies in warm water until fully softened, so that the blades meet flesh rather than brittle skin and the resulting paste is smooth without fibrous streaks. Drain and combine with the galangal and lemongrass, then blend to a smooth paste, adding a small amount of water only as necessary to facilitate grinding. The paste is ready when it holds together without visible fibre and the colour is a uniform deep red.
2. 2
   Heat the oil in a heavy pan or wok over medium heat and add the white mustard seeds, holding them undisturbed so that the heat builds evenly around each seed and they release their full nutty sharpness rather than steaming in cool oil. They are ready when they pop and begin to jump in the oil — this toasting is complete only at the audible pop; do not add the paste before this moment.
3. 3
   Add the rempah paste to the popped mustard seeds and fry over medium heat, stirring continuously to prevent scorching, until after 5 minutes the paste is fragrant, has darkened slightly, and the oil begins to separate at the edges — this is where the dish lives or dies: pour the white vinegar directly into the hot, active paste at this exact moment, so that it caramelises into the rempah rather than remaining as a separate acid sitting above it. Continue frying until the vinegar aroma has mellowed from sharp to round, the colour has deepened to dark terracotta, and the oil has fully separated from the paste.
4. 4
   Add the cooked meats to the rempah and turn each piece thoroughly to coat, then add just enough water to bring the sauce to a loose consistency around the meat, so the braise can carry the rempah deep into the surface of each piece rather than leaving it pooled at the bottom. Cover and braise over low heat, turning the meat occasionally, until it is fully saturated with colour and the rempah has penetrated to the surface of each piece.
5. 5
   Remove the lid and raise the heat to medium, then reduce the sauce, stirring as it thickens, so that the final texture is a clinging paste-sauce — dark red-brown with visible mustard seeds and chili flecks — rather than a broth or thin gravy. Season with salt. The dish is done when the sauce coats the back of a spoon without running off; serve with white rice or bread.