Kristang laksa: Eurasian coconut noodle soup

Ingredients

• For the prawn stock
• 500 g prawn heads and shells, reserved from the cooked prawns below
• 1.2 litres water
• For the rempah
• 6 shallots, peeled, roughly chopped
• 30 g galangal, peeled, sliced
• 2 stalks lemongrass, white part only, sliced
• 6 dried red chillies, soaked in warm water until softened
• 20 g fresh turmeric, peeled, sliced
• 1 tsp belacan (fermented shrimp paste), toasted
• For the broth
• 2 tbsp lard
• 400 ml first-press coconut milk, thick
• 2 tbsp tamarind paste, dissolved in 60 ml warm water, strained
• 1 tsp salt, or to taste
• For the bowl
• 400 g thick round rice noodles (laksa noodles), fresh; soaked or blanched according to pack
• 400 g prawns, cooked, peeled; heads and shells reserved for stock
• 200 g tofu puffs (fried tofu), halved
• 200 g cockles (kerang), cooked, shelled
• 100 g bean sprouts, tails trimmed, briefly blanched
• For the garnish
• 1 small bunch laksa leaf (daun kesum), leaves picked
• 2 fresh red chillies, thinly sliced
• 4 calamansi, halved; optional, strongly recommended
• To serve
• 1 quantity sambal belacan, served on the side

Method

1. 1
   Simmer prawn heads and shells in 1.2 litres of water for 30 minutes, so the shells surrender their sweetness and colour fully into the liquid rather than leaving it pale and flat. Strain, discarding the solids, and reserve the concentrated stock. The stock should be a deep amber-pink and carry a pronounced prawn sweetness on the nose.
2. 2
   Pound or blend shallots, galangal, lemongrass, soaked dried chillies, fresh turmeric, and belacan to a fine, cohesive paste, working the fibrous aromatics thoroughly so that their oils are released into the mass rather than sitting locked inside unbroken filaments. The paste is ready when no fibrous threads of lemongrass or galangal remain visible.
3. 3
   Heat lard in a heavy pot over medium heat, add the rempah paste, and fry, stirring constantly, until it breaks from the oil — the fat visibly separates and pools at the edges of the paste — so the raw shallot and belacan smell yields fully to a toasted, caramelised spice fragrance.
4. 4
   Add the thick coconut milk to the fried rempah and cook together, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes, so the milk has time to marry with the paste and carry those spice flavours rather than sitting separately on top. The coconut milk will thicken slightly and take on a faintly golden hue as the milk solids caramelise against the hot paste.
5. 5
   Pour in the reserved prawn stock, stir to combine, and bring the broth to a gentle simmer — do not boil, so the coconut milk holds together and the broth stays glossy rather than breaking into a greasy, curdled liquid. Add the tamarind paste and season with salt, then taste: three flavour dimensions must be identifiable — spice aromatic from the rempah, coconut richness, and tamarind sourness. Adjust tamarind or salt until the balance is clear.
6. 6
   Add the tofu puffs to the simmering broth and hold at a gentle simmer for 5 minutes, so the puffs swell and draw the spiced broth deep into their spongy interior rather than remaining bland at the centre. Press one lightly — it should feel saturated and yield easily to the touch.
7. 7
   Divide the noodles and bean sprouts among four deep, pre-warmed bowls — warmed so the broth does not lose heat the moment it is ladled in — then arrange the cooked prawns, tofu puffs, and cockles over the noodles and ladle the very hot broth over the contents of each bowl. Finish with laksa leaf and sliced fresh red chilli; the bowl is ready when the daun kesum releases its peppery-citrus volatiles on contact with the hot broth, and the aroma rises immediately and sharply.
8. 8
   Serve at once with sambal belacan on the side and calamansi halves for squeezing into the broth at the table.