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1
Heat the oven to 180 °C. Place the baking dish in the oven with the oil or schmaltz inside and allow it to become very hot — at least 10 minutes. Meanwhile, cook the egg noodles until just tender, drain thoroughly, and transfer to a large bowl.
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2
For yerushalmi kugel: melt the sugar in a heavy saucepan over medium heat without stirring until it reaches a dark amber caramel. Add the cracked black pepper. Pour the hot caramel immediately over the drained noodles, tossing to coat every strand. The noodles will seize and clump; continue tossing until the caramel distributes evenly. For the sweet version: toss the noodles with the sour cream, beaten eggs, raisins, and cinnamon until each noodle is individually coated. The mixture must be fully combined and glossy before it enters the pan.
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3
Remove the preheated dish from the oven. Pour the noodle mixture into the hot fat immediately — the instant sizzle on contact confirms that the bottom crust has begun to form. This is where the dish lives or dies: a cold pan produces a pale, uniformly soft kugel without the caramelised crust that defines it.
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4
Bake uncovered at 180 °C for 45 to 55 minutes. The kugel is done when the top and edges are dark and almost brittle in appearance, the interior is set and does not tremble at the centre when the dish is nudged, and a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean rather than wet.
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5
Remove from the oven and rest for 15 to 20 minutes before cutting. The kugel is ready to portion when the edges have pulled slightly from the sides of the dish and a knife inserted at the centre meets resistance rather than collapse. Serve at room temperature.