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1
Combine the maida, salt, and yeast in a large bowl, then add the yoghurt and butter or oil and incorporate the warm water gradually, working the mass into a soft, cohesive dough. Knead for 8–10 minutes until the surface is smooth and the dough springs back slowly when pressed, so that the gluten is fully developed and the kulcha will stretch around the filling without tearing. Cover and rest at room temperature for 2–4 hours; the dough is ready when it has roughly doubled and a finger pressed into its centre leaves an indent that fills back slowly.
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2
Very finely mince the onion for the pyaz filling, then gather it in a clean cloth and squeeze firmly until no further liquid runs out, so that the filling stays dry inside the kulcha and does not turn the dough soggy or cause it to burst with steam on the tawa. Combine the squeezed onion with the minced green chilli, chopped coriander, ajwain, and salt; the finished mixture should hold together without releasing any moisture when pressed between the fingers.
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3
Divide the rested dough into four equal portions and, working one at a time on a lightly floured surface, flatten each into a round of approximately 12 cm. Place one quarter of the filling in the centre, gather the edges up and over, and pinch firmly to seal, then press the ball gently flat and roll or hand-press to a round of approximately 18–20 cm. This is where the dish lives or dies: any tear in the dough surface will allow the filling's steam to burst through during cooking, rupturing the kulcha and destroying its characteristic domed, light surface, so roll with care and seal any crack immediately.
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4
Press the minced onion and chopped coriander topping firmly into the upper surface of each shaped kulcha so that it adheres and will not fall away when the bread is flipped. Heat the tawa or a heavy cast-iron pan over the highest flame available until a drop of water skips and evaporates on contact, so the kulcha seizes quickly, holds its shape, and develops a proper char rather than drying out slowly. Lay the kulcha topping-side down, cook for 1–2 minutes until the underside takes light colour, then flip, cover with a lid, and cook a further 2–3 minutes; the kulcha is done when it has puffed, the surface is lightly blistered and speckled with char, and the bread sounds hollow when tapped on its base.
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5
Remove the kulcha from the heat immediately and apply butter or ghee generously across the entire surface while the bread is at its hottest, so the fat soaks fully into the crust rather than sitting on top of it. Serve at once with chole, raw sliced onion, and green chilli.