Llapingachos

Ingredients

• 1 kg white floury potatoes, peeled, boiled until tender, riced or milled completely dry — no water added
• 200 g queso fresco or queso blanco, cut into small cubes; must be fresh, non-melting variety
• 1 medium white onion, finely diced
• 2 tbsp lard, for sautéing the onion and for pan-frying; vegetable oil as substitute
• 1 tbsp achiote-infused oil, annatto oil; added to the pan at the frying stage
• 1 tsp fine salt
• For the curtido
• 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced
• 2 medium tomatoes, finely diced
• 60 ml lime juice, freshly squeezed
• 1 pinch salt
• To serve (optional)
• 4 eggs, fried
• 2 avocados, halved or sliced
• 200 g salsa de maní, peanut sauce; traditional accompaniment in Ambato

Method

1. 1
   Prepare the curtido at least 30 minutes before service. Combine the sliced red onion, diced tomato, lime juice, and salt in a bowl. Toss well and set aside at room temperature. The onion is ready when it has softened slightly at the edges but retains its crunch.
2. 2
   Boil the potatoes until fully tender, then pass them through a ricer or food mill onto a clean surface or into a wide bowl. Press through without adding any water. The mash must be entirely dry — no steam should condense into moisture on the surface. A damp mash will prevent crust formation and cause the patties to absorb oil rather than fry.
3. 3
   Heat a small quantity of lard in a pan over medium heat and sauté the diced onion until translucent and soft. Remove from heat and allow to cool briefly, then fold the sautéed onion and salt into the dry mashed potato until evenly combined.
4. 4
   Fold the cubed queso fresco through the potato mixture, distributing the cubes evenly. Do not crush the cheese — it must remain as distinct pockets within the mash. Divide the mixture into eight equal portions and form each into a flat round of 2–2.5 cm even thickness. Form and fry immediately; do not refrigerate the shaped patties.
5. 5
   This is where the dish lives or dies. Heat the lard and achiote-infused oil together in a wide, heavy pan over medium heat until shimmering. Place the llapingachos in the pan without crowding. Leave entirely undisturbed for 3–4 minutes — do not press. The crust is ready to turn when the underside releases cleanly from the pan and shows a deep amber-orange colour, and the edges are visibly set and dry. Turn once and cook the second side for a further 3–4 minutes to the same colour. The interior must remain soft and yielding; the exterior must be a firm, continuous crust.
6. 6
   Transfer to a warm plate. Serve two llapingachos per portion, with curtido alongside. Accompany with fried egg, avocado, and salsa de maní as the plate demands. The cheese cubes within should be warm and distinct — biting through the potato exterior should reveal identifiable pockets of fresh cheese.