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1
Place the lardons in a wide, heavy braising pan over medium heat. Render until the fat runs freely and the batons are golden at the edges. Remove the lardons and set aside, leaving the rendered fat in the pan. The fat should coat the base without pooling.
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2
Add the crushed garlic and chopped tomatoes to the lardon fat. Sweat over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes collapse and the garlic softens without colouring. The mixture should be jammy and fragrant.
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3
Pour in the Niellucciu-based red wine. Add the bay leaves. Raise the heat and reduce the liquid by half, uncovered, until the surface darkens and the raw wine smell gives way to a concentrated, slightly sweet aroma. This is where the dish lives or dies: wine added unreduced carries its full tannin load into the braise and no subsequent step can correct it.
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4
Return the lardons to the pan. Lower the heat to a steady simmer. In a separate pan, heat the olive oil over high heat until shimmering. Sear the hake steaks 90 seconds per side — colour only, not through. The steaks should show a firm, mahogany crust while the interior remains raw.
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5
Lay the seared steaks into the braising liquid. Scatter the mint leaves over and around the fish. Cover and braise at a gentle simmer for exactly 12 minutes. The steaks are done when they hold their form intact, resist gentle pressure, and the braising liquid has deepened to a dark, game-like red. Do not exceed 12 minutes.
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6
Lift the fish steaks carefully onto warmed plates. If a more refined sauce is required, strain the braising liquid into a small saucepan and reduce further over high heat until it coats a spoon, then spoon over the fish. Finish with grated poutargue râpée if using. Serve immediately alongside Pulenda or Pain de Châtaigne.