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1
Sift the chestnut flour into a wide bowl. Add the sea salt. Pour the ewe's milk and water in gradually, whisking to a smooth, thick batter — it should fall from the whisk in a slow, heavy ribbon, not run freely. For the sweet variant, whisk in the caster sugar, bruised anise seed, and lemon zest at this stage. Rest the batter for ten minutes. The batter is ready when it holds a distinct trail on the surface for two to three seconds before it closes.
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2
Set a terracotta griddle or flat iron pan over moderate heat. When the surface is hot, brush it with rendered panzetta fat (savoury) or a neutral film of oil (sweet). Ladle batter to form rounds approximately 12 cm in diameter and no less than 1 cm in thickness. Cover immediately with a tight lid. This is where the dish lives or dies: chestnut flour browns faster than wheat flour, and only covered moderate heat will cook the centre through before the exterior chars. Cook undisturbed until the top surface is fully matte and dry-looking — no wet or glossy patches remain.
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3
Lift one edge gently with a wide spatula. The migliaccio should hold its shape cleanly — dense and yielding, with no crumbling at the rim. If it resists without tearing, it is ready to turn. Flip once and cook the second side, uncovered, for one to two minutes, until a golden-beige colour develops with slight char at the edges.
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4
Transfer directly to warm plates. Serve immediately — migliacci do not keep. For the savoury version, lay a portion of fresh brocciu alongside and two slices of lonzu or figatellu. Press the brocciu gently against the hot surface of the pancake; the chestnut absorbs the fresh cheese's moisture. Taste: chestnut sweetness should be dominant, with a clean griddle note and no trace of raw flour in the centre.