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1
Prepare the birista. Melt the ghee in a heavy-based pan over medium heat, add the sliced onions, and fry, stirring frequently, until deeply golden-brown but not burnt — this takes patience and constant attention, because it is the birista's concentrated sweetness and body that will carry the whole sauce. The finished birista should be uniformly caramel-gold; any black edges signal bitterness and the batch must begin again. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain on absorbent paper, allow to cool completely — so the onion crisps as it cools and grinds to a smoother paste — then grind with a little water until completely smooth, and reserve the ghee in the pan.
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2
Prepare the nut paste. Drain the soaked cashews or almonds and grind them in a blender, adding the water a little at a time, so the friction does not warm the paste and turn it oily before it is fully smooth. The result should be a perfectly smooth, ivory-coloured cream — rub a little between finger and thumb and feel for any graininess, which would show as a gritty texture in the finished sauce.
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3
Return the pan with the reserved ghee to low heat, add the whole spices — green and black cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, bay leaf — and let them sizzle gently for 30 to 60 seconds until fragrant, so the ghee draws out their volatile perfume before the wet ingredients arrive and would otherwise trap it. Add the ginger-garlic paste and stir for 1 to 2 minutes until the raw, sharp smell has gone and the paste smells sweet and toasted.
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4
Add the ground coriander, cumin, and white pepper, and stir for 30 seconds over low heat so the dry spices bloom in the fat rather than steaming in their own moisture. Add the birista paste and cook the combined base, stirring steadily, until the ghee begins to separate at the edges and the mixture tightens and deepens slightly in colour — this tells you the water in the onion is gone and the base will not dilute the sauce.
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5
Add the meat pieces and turn them in the spiced base until every surface is evenly coated. Raise the heat slightly to colour the surfaces, which gives the finished korma a deeper, more rounded flavour, then reduce again to low before proceeding.
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6
Add the cold whisked yoghurt one tablespoon at a time, stirring constantly after each addition and waiting for full incorporation before adding the next, so the yoghurt tempers gradually rather than seizing against the heat and splitting into white curds floating in greasy liquid. Continue until all the yoghurt is incorporated and the sauce is smooth and pale.
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7
Stir in the nut paste, then pour in the cream and enough stock to partially submerge the meat, so the braise remains gentle and the nut cream has liquid to thin into rather than scorching on the pan floor. Maintain a very gentle simmer throughout — the sauce must never reach a rolling boil, which would break the emulsion and separate the ghee visibly from the yoghurt. Cover and braise over the lowest possible heat until the meat is completely tender.
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8
Watch for the bhunao stage: the ghee will rise and float visibly on the surface, signalling that all excess moisture has cooked out and the spices are fully integrated into the fat rather than merely suspended in water. Act immediately — add a little more stock to bring the sauce to the desired consistency, then stir gently to re-incorporate the risen ghee before it pools and the sauce looks broken at the table.
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9
Remove from the heat and stir in the saffron bloomed in warm milk, so its colour and scent disperse evenly rather than streaking. Add the kewra or rose water, adjust the salt, and serve — the finished sauce should be pale gold, unctuous, and coat the back of a spoon with no visible separation of fat from the emulsion.