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1
Rinse the rice until the water runs nearly clear. Place the rice in a heavy pot or donabe with 3 litres of cold water and the salt. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring once to prevent the grains from clumping on the base. When the surface is visibly agitated and steam rises freely, reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting.
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2
Simmer uncovered, or with the lid ajar, for 40 to 50 minutes, stirring occasionally. This is where the dish lives or dies: the okayu ratio of ten parts water to one part rice must be maintained long enough for the grains to fully soften and release their starch into a loose, cohesive porridge. The correct moment is when the grains have bloomed completely and the liquid has thickened to a flowing, creamy consistency — neither soup nor stiff paste.
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3
While the porridge finishes, finely chop all seven nanakusa herbs. Keep them separate from the hot pot until the final moment.
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4
Remove the pot from the heat or reduce to the absolute minimum. Stir in all the chopped herbs and allow them to sit in the residual heat for no more than 2 minutes. The herbs are done when they turn a vivid, barely-wilted green and release a clean, faintly grassy aroma — prolonged heat will dull both colour and volatile aromatics.
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5
Ladle immediately into warm bowls. The porridge must be served hot; starch continues to absorb water as it cools and reheating is not recommended. Umeboshi may be placed alongside as a table condiment.