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1
Combine the besan with the ajwain, red chilli powder, cumin seeds, ground coriander, turmeric, and salt in a wide bowl. Add the cold water gradually, whisking after each addition — cold water keeps the batter from becoming slack too quickly, giving you control over the final consistency. Stop when the batter falls from a lifted spoon in a thick, slow ribbon: it should coat the back of the spoon without dripping freely and without being spreadable.
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2
For onion pakora, toss the sliced rings directly with the dry besan and spices, then add only enough water to bind, so the onion's own released moisture becomes part of the batter rather than thinning it unpredictably. For paneer or chilli pakora, dip the prepared pieces in the finished batter, turning each one to coat evenly on all sides.
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3
Pour the oil into a deep, heavy vessel to a depth suitable for submersion and heat to 175°C; a heavy vessel holds the temperature steadier as cold pieces enter, so the oil recovers quickly between batches. To test: drop a small amount of batter into the oil — it should sizzle immediately and rise to the surface within three seconds. This is where the dish lives or dies: oil below this threshold produces pakora that absorbs fat and turns dense, while oil above it burns the exterior before the interior is cooked through.
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4
Lower no more than five or six pieces into the oil at one time, so each piece is surrounded by enough hot oil to seal its crust rapidly rather than stewing in a crowded, cooling bath. Fry, turning once, until the exterior is deep golden and fully crunchy.
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5
Remove with a spider or slotted spoon and transfer immediately to a wire rack rather than paper, so that steam escapes freely from the underside and the crust stays crunchy instead of softening against a damp surface. The pakora is done when it holds its crunch and shows no surface grease.