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1
Wipe each porcini clean with a damp cloth — do not rinse under water, as the sponge cap absorbs moisture and impedes searing. Separate the stems from the caps. Slice caps into pieces of roughly equal thickness; cut stems slightly thicker, as they are denser and take longer to colour.
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2
Place a wide, heavy pan over the highest heat available. Add the olive oil and the whole garlic cloves. Allow the pan to reach the point at which a drop of water dropped onto the surface vaporises instantly. This is where the dish lives or dies: if the porcini go into a pan that is insufficiently hot, they release moisture immediately, the temperature drops, and the mushrooms steam grey and rubbery rather than sauté golden and crusted.
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3
Add the porcini stems first — they require slightly longer contact with the heat than the caps. Arrange them in a single layer without overlap. If the full quantity does not fit without crowding, cook in batches. Do not stir. Leave undisturbed for 3 minutes until the undersides are deeply golden; the sound is an active, sustained sizzle throughout.
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4
Add the caps to the pan in a single layer alongside or in a second batch. Again, do not stir. Allow 3 minutes of uninterrupted contact until the cut surface is deeply golden and a firm crust has formed. Turn each piece once only. Cook the second side until it colours. The crust that forms on the cut surface is the flavour of the dish.
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5
Remove and discard the garlic cloves before they take on colour — they have perfumed the oil; any further heat turns them bitter. Add the torn parsley and the unsalted butter. Toss once and remove from the heat. The parsley should remain bright green; 30 seconds is the maximum.
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6
Season with flaky salt at service only — salt added at any earlier stage draws moisture from the mushrooms, causing them to steam. Taste and adjust. The finished mushrooms should be golden-crusted, tender within, and fragrant with garlic and parsley without any bitterness.