Potage Saint-Germain — Classical Split Pea Soup

Ingredients

• 400 g green split peas, soaked in cold water 2–4 hours or overnight, then drained
• 100 g onion, diced
• 50 g carrot, diced
• 50 g celery, diced
• 40 g unsalted butter, for sweating the mirepoix
• 1.5 litres light ham or chicken stock, plus extra to adjust consistency
• 1 ham hock or piece of smoked bacon, floated on top of the peas during cooking
• 1 bouquet garni, thyme, bay leaf, parsley stalks
• 40 g cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces, for finishing
• For the garnish
• 50 g day-old bread, cut into small dice for croûtons, fried in butter
• 1 small handful fresh mint leaves, scattered at service if available

Method

1. 1
   Soak the split peas in cold water for 2–4 hours, or overnight. Drain thoroughly before use. The peas are ready when they have swollen evenly and no hard centres remain when one is pressed between finger and thumb.
2. 2
   In a heavy pot over moderate heat, melt 40 g of butter and sweat the diced onion, carrot, and celery for approximately 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. The vegetables are done when they are completely soft and translucent with no colour taken.
3. 3
   Add the drained peas, stock, and bouquet garni. Float the ham hock on top of the peas — keeping it off the bottom of the pot prevents the peas from scorching beneath it. Bring to a gentle simmer.
4. 4
   Skim the surface thoroughly as the soup comes to temperature, removing all foam and impurities. The surface should be clear before the lid is partially set.
5. 5
   This is where the dish lives or dies: maintain a bare, steady simmer — never a rolling boil — for 60–90 minutes, until the split peas have completely dissolved into the stock. A vigorous boil will cause the peas to stick and scorch on the bottom and will drive off the stock unevenly. The soup is ready when no whole or half peas remain visible and the liquid has thickened considerably.
6. 6
   Remove and set aside the ham hock and bouquet garni. Pass the soup through a moulin-légumes or blender until smooth. Return it to the rinsed pot. Shred the meat from the hock and reserve some for garnish if desired.
7. 7
   Assess the consistency: Saint-Germain is a potage lié — it must flow from the ladle in a steady stream without plopping. If too thick, loosen with additional stock. Reheat gently over low heat.
8. 8
   Off the heat, beat in the 40 g of cold butter in small pieces until fully incorporated. Season with pepper. Add salt with restraint — the ham hock will have contributed significant salt to the broth already. Taste the soup, not the ladle, to judge the seasoning.
9. 9
   Fry the diced bread in butter until golden and crisp on all sides. The croûtons are ready when they are uniformly amber and hold their crunch when pressed.
10. 10
    Ladle the soup into warmed bowls. Scatter butter-fried croûtons and, if available, fresh mint leaves over the surface. Any reserved shredded hock meat may be placed in the centre before service.