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1
Pat the veal dry and season with fine sea salt. Warm the olive oil in a wide, heavy-based pot over a medium-high flame and brown the veal on all surfaces until a pale gold crust forms — not a deep sear, because this is a white ragù and the colour you build here sets the colour of the finished sauce. The meat is ready when it releases from the pot without tearing.
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2
Reduce the heat to low, then add the white wine, water, lemon-zest strips, sage leaves, and whole peppercorns — the liquid should reach roughly halfway up the veal, so the upper half steams gently in the aromatic vapour while the lower half poaches, giving you an even result without needing to submerge the meat entirely. Bring to a bare simmer, no more than small, infrequent bubbles at the surface, then cover with a tight-fitting lid.
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3
This is where the dish lives or dies: braise at the lowest possible heat for 2 hours 30 minutes to 3 hours, turning the veal once at the halfway point, because a shortened braise leaves the meat fibrous and the sauce thin — the full duration is what lets the connective tissue in the shoulder or breast melt away into the liquid, turning it glossy and rich. The veal is done when it yields completely to two forks and pulls apart in long, silky shreds with no resistance.
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4
Lift out and discard the lemon-zest strips, sage leaves, and peppercorns, reserving the zest strips if you intend to use them as garnish — finely dice them now, while they are still pliable and fragrant from the braise. Pull the veal into rough pieces directly in the pot using two forks, add the rinsed capers, stir once, and cook uncovered over a medium flame for 10 minutes, until the braising liquid tightens around the meat and coats the back of a spoon in a pale, glossy film.
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5
Remove the pot from the heat and add the cold butter cubes, stirring steadily until fully absorbed, so the cold fat emulsifies into the warm sauce rather than splitting away from it — you will see it turn visibly glossy and slightly thickened as it comes together. The finished sauce should coat the pulled veal evenly rather than pooling beneath it.
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6
Cook the pappardelle or rigatoni in well-salted boiling water until just short of al dente, then transfer directly to the ragù and toss over a low flame for 1–2 minutes, so the pasta finishes cooking in the sauce and draws the braising liquid into itself rather than simply being coated on the outside. Taste and correct the salt, then serve immediately, scattered with the finely diced reserved lemon zest and freshly chopped parsley.