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1
Bring 2 litres of whole milk to a full boil in a heavy pan, then reduce the heat. Add the lemon juice or vinegar in a slow stream, stirring gently, so the curds form in small, tender clusters rather than tight, rubbery lumps that kneading cannot smooth out. The milk will split into white curds and a pale greenish whey; once the whey runs clear and no further curdling occurs, the coagulation is complete.
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2
Line a colander with muslin and pour in the curdled milk, then gather the cloth and rinse the chhena under cold water so any residual acid is washed away rather than left to tighten the curd and give the finished discs a sour edge. Hang the bundle for 30 minutes until the whey has ceased to drip and the chhena feels firm but not dry to the touch.
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3
Turn the chhena onto a clean surface and knead for 8–10 minutes until the mass is smooth, pliable, and entirely free of graininess, because any remaining grain will open into a crack when the disc swells in the boiling syrup. Divide into equal portions — approximately 16 to 20 pieces — and shape each into a flat disc roughly 1.5 cm thick, keeping the thickness honest so the disc holds through two stages of cooking and absorbs the aromatic milk evenly rather than collapsing into the rabri.
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4
Dissolve the sugar in the water in a wide, deep pan and bring to a rolling boil, then add the chhena discs in a single layer and cover so the steam pressure helps them swell uniformly rather than puffing only where the liquid touches them. Cook at a vigorous boil for 15–18 minutes; the discs are ready when they have roughly doubled in thickness and spring back lightly when pressed.
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5
While the discs cook in the syrup, bring 2 litres of whole milk to a boil in a wide, heavy pan, then reduce to a steady simmer, stirring frequently and scraping the cream skin back into the milk so it dissolves back into the body of the rabri and builds richness rather than being lost on the side of the pan. Continue until the milk has reduced to approximately half its original volume and is visibly thickened and cream-coloured, then add the sugar, the bloomed saffron with its milk, and the crushed cardamom; the rabri is ready when it coats a spoon and holds a clear trail.
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6
Remove the chhena discs from the sugar syrup with a slotted spoon. Working with one disc at a time, cup it gently between both palms and press just enough to expel excess syrup so the disc can take on the aromatic rabri rather than remaining waterlogged with plain sugar water. The disc should feel lighter but remain intact; transfer each squeezed disc directly to the simmering rabri.
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7
Simmer the discs in the rabri over low heat for 5–6 minutes, keeping the heat well below a boil at all times so the chhena structure stays tender and intact rather than breaking apart in the turbulence. The discs are ready when they look plump and glossy in the milk; remove from the heat and stir in the rose water.
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8
Allow to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate — ideally overnight — so the discs continue to draw in the aromatic cream and the saffron and cardamom have time to settle into every part of the milk rather than sitting as a top note. Serve cold in individual bowls or clay cups, scattered with crushed pistachio and almond slivers.