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1
Set the stock in a separate saucepan over low heat and maintain it at a constant simmer throughout cooking. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt 40 g of butter over medium heat. Add the finely diced onion or shallot and sweat for 5 minutes without colour. The allium should be entirely softened and translucent, with no browning at the edges.
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2
Add the rice and stir continuously for 2–3 minutes until every grain is coated in butter and the centre of each grain turns translucent — the nacrer stage. A faint nutty scent will rise from the pan. This toasting is what separates a creamy risotto from a stodgy one.
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3
Pour in the white wine and stir until it is fully absorbed. The hiss of the wine hitting the pan subsides and the rice tightens slightly before relaxing — only then is the wine gone.
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4
This is the step on which the dish lives or dies. Begin adding the hot stock one ladleful (approximately 100 ml) at a time, stirring every minute or so — frequent, not constant. Each addition must be nearly absorbed before the next ladle is introduced. Cold stock, excessive stock at once, or insufficient stirring will produce uneven cooking and destroy the gradual accumulation of creaminess. Continue for 16–18 minutes in total. At the point of readiness, a grain pressed between thumb and forefinger yields at its outer surface yet offers a distinct, tiny point of resistance at its core — al dente.
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5
Remove the pan from the heat. Add the cold butter cubes and the double cream. Stir vigorously to incorporate — the mantecatura. Tilt the pan: the risotto should flow in a slow, continuous wave (all'onda). If it sits rigid, stir in a further small measure of hot stock. If it runs liquid, it has gone too far.
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6
Season with salt and white pepper. Taste: the finish should be rich and round, with the sweetness of butter and cream balanced by the wine's acidity and the depth of the stock. Plate immediately, adding any luxury garnish — sautéed ceps, shaved truffle, lobster medallions, or a saffron and shellfish reduction — at this final stage.