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1
Prepare the charcoal grill to maximum heat. The grate must be glowing and uniformly white before any fish or fennel is placed on it. Lay the dried fennel stalks directly on the coals or across the grate as a bed. They must ignite and combust — not smoulder — within one minute of contact. The test: dense, aromatic anise-scented smoke rises immediately from the stalks.
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2
While the grill heats, brush each fish on both sides with olive oil. Score three cuts on each side, angled toward the head and deep enough to reach the bone. The cuts must be deep — this is where the smoke enters the flesh. Do not open the cavity; the liver remains inside, undisturbed.
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3
Place the fish on the burning fennel stalks. The fennel burns in 3–5 minutes at grill temperature. This is where the dish lives or dies: the grill must be hot enough that the skin seals on contact — a sharp, immediate sizzle — and the fennel must be dry enough to combust and produce structural anise smoke, not green steam. If the skin does not seal within seconds, the flesh will tear at turning.
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4
Cook 4–5 minutes on the first side without moving the fish. The test: the scored edges show defined char and the skin no longer adheres to the grate when the fish is gently nudged.
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5
Turn once and cook a further 4–5 minutes on the second side. The test: a small amber pool is visible at the cavity opening — the liver has melted and begun to run. The fin edges are caramelised and crisp.
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6
Transfer to a board. Lean each fish slightly to one side so the melted liver runs out onto the board. Season with fleur de sel. Serve immediately; the liver pool on the board is the sauce. The test: the flesh at the score lines carries embedded smoke flavour, and the liver spread reads as rich, mineral, and slightly bitter offal.