Sagne Torte Abruzzesi con Sugo di Agnello

Ingredients

• For the sagne torte
• 400 g semolina di grano duro (fine semolina)
• 180 ml water, lukewarm
• For the ragù di agnello
• 600 g lamb shoulder, cut into 3–4 cm pieces
• 400 g San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand
• 150 ml dry white wine
• 2 sprigs rosemary, leaves picked
• 3 cloves garlic, finely sliced
• 1 pinch dried chilli
• 60 g smoked guanciale or pancetta, finely diced
• 60 ml extra-virgin olive oil

Method

1. 1
   Mound the semolina on a clean work surface. Add the lukewarm water gradually, working from the centre outward, until a firm, compact dough forms. Knead for 10 minutes until smooth and no longer tacky. Wrap and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. The dough is ready when it springs back slowly under a thumb pressed into its surface.
2. 2
   Roll the rested dough to a sheet 3 mm thick — thick enough to bear the twisting without tearing. Cut into rectangles of 8 × 4 cm. Working immediately, before the surface begins to dry, hold each rectangle at both short ends and twist 3–4 times in opposite directions to form a tight spiral. Lay the finished sagne torte on a semolina-dusted tray. This is where the dish lives or dies: dough that has dried even slightly will crack along the twist rather than flex; the entire batch must be shaped within 10 minutes of cutting.
3. 3
   Warm the olive oil in a wide, heavy pan over medium heat. Add the guanciale and render until the fat runs clear and the edges colour lightly. Add the garlic, rosemary leaves, and dried chilli. Sauté until the garlic softens and the rosemary releases its scent into the oil — 2–3 minutes. The oil should smell sharply aromatic before the lamb goes in.
4. 4
   Raise the heat to medium-high. Add the lamb shoulder pieces in a single layer and brown on all sides without crowding the pan. Pour in the white wine and allow it to reduce by half, scraping any deposits from the base of the pan. The sharp edge of the alcohol should be gone from the steam rising from the pan.
5. 5
   Add the crushed San Marzano tomatoes. Stir to combine, reduce the heat to a low simmer, cover, and braise for 90 minutes. Stir occasionally. At 90 minutes the lamb should be completely tender — it should yield to the touch of a spoon with no resistance — and the collagen dissolved into the sauce.
6. 6
   If the sauce is too loose to cling to the pasta, remove the lid and reduce uncovered for a further 15 minutes, stirring frequently. The finished ragù should coat the back of a spoon in a thick, glossy layer without running freely. Do not drain or discard any of the lamb cooking juices.
7. 7
   Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a vigorous boil. Cook the sagne torte for 3–4 minutes; fresh semolina pasta of this thickness is done when the twisted edges are tender but the centre retains a faint resistance under the tooth. Drain, reserving a ladleful of pasta water.
8. 8
   Transfer the drained pasta directly into the ragù pan over low heat. Toss to coat, adding a splash of pasta water if needed to loosen the sauce so it enters the spiral cavities of each piece. Serve immediately in warmed bowls.