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1
Allow the cheese to rest at room temperature for at least 20 minutes before cutting — cold cheese crumbles and will not hold a clean julienne. Cut into neat strips of 5 mm × 5 mm × 40 mm, or into 1 cm cubes. The pieces should be uniform so they absorb the dressing evenly. The cut is correct when each strip holds its edge without crumbling.
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2
Whisk together the white wine vinegar and Dijon mustard until combined. Add the grapeseed oil in a thin stream, whisking continuously, then add the pinch of paprika and season with salt and pepper. If using cream, whisk it in last. The vinaigrette is ready when it is emulsified, slightly thickened, and the mustard is assertive on the palate — this is where the dish lives or dies: a timid vinaigrette will not penetrate the cheese.
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3
Combine the cheese strips or cubes, onion rings, and sliced cornichons in a wide bowl. Add the diced tomato if using. Pour the vinaigrette over and fold gently with a large spoon or spatula — do not toss vigorously. The motion is done when every piece is coated and no vinaigrette pools at the bottom, but no strip is broken.
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4
Scatter the chopped parsley and chives generously over the salad and fold in once more. Leave the bowl uncovered at room temperature for 30 minutes. At the end of the marinade the cheese will have softened very slightly at its edges, deepened in colour where the vinaigrette has penetrated, and the herbs will have wilted fractionally into the dressing. The salad is ready when the cheese smells of mustard and herbs rather than of plain dairy.
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5
Serve at room temperature — do not refrigerate before or after dressing. Plate alongside bread, butter, and pretzels, or combine with a cervelas salad for the classic assiette alsacienne.