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1
Place the whole trotter in a pot, cover with cold water and bring to a full boil. Drain, rinse the trotter under cold running water and pat thoroughly dry. The surface must be dry before the next step, or the skin will not colour.
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2
Dry-fry or deep-fry the trotter in a dry or lightly oiled wok or pot over high heat, turning regularly, until the skin is an even, deep golden brown on all sides. This creates the fond and lays the foundation for the final lacquer; pale skin at this stage means pale, shallow flavour throughout the braise.
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3
Transfer the browned trotter to a heavy braising pot. Add the soy sauce, Shaoxing wine and enough water to just submerge the trotter. Add the rock sugar and five-spice powder. If using dried tofu knots, nestle them around the trotter now; they will absorb the braising liquid and provide textural variety.
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4
Bring the liquid to a boil, then reduce to the lowest steady simmer. Cover and braise for 2 hours 30 minutes to 3 hours, turning the trotter once or twice during cooking. This is where the dish lives or dies: the braise must run long enough for the skin to become fully gelatinous — it should tremble and yield visibly when the pot is nudged, and a chopstick should meet no resistance passing through the thickest skin.
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5
Remove the trotter carefully to a serving dish and keep warm. Raise the heat under the braising liquid and reduce, uncovered, until the sauce is thick and coats the back of a spoon with a deep, glossy sheen. Pour the reduced sauce over the trotter or serve it alongside. The sauce should be sweet, dark and lacquered — assertively so, in the Shandong manner.