Sichuan Cold Sesame Noodles (Liang Mian)

Ingredients

• 400 g fresh wheat noodles, or 300 g dried; medium thickness
• 1 tbsp sesame oil, to oil noodles after cooling
• For the dressing
• 80 g Chinese sesame paste (zhima jiang)
• 3 tbsp sesame oil, to loosen the paste
• 3 tbsp chili oil (hong you), with sediment; quality homemade or Lao Gan Ma
• 2 tbsp Sichuan pepper oil, infused oil, not whole peppercorns
• 2 tbsp soy sauce
• 1 tbsp Chinkiang black vinegar
• 1 tsp sugar
• 3 cloves garlic, finely minced or pounded to a paste
• To garnish
• 1 medium cucumber, julienned
• 1 medium carrot, julienned

Method

1. 1
   Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Cook the noodles according to their type — fresh noodles require 2–3 minutes, dried somewhat longer. Drain and rinse immediately and thoroughly under cold running water until the noodles are chilled to the core. Drain well. The noodles should feel cool and separate to the touch.
2. 2
   Transfer the cold noodles to a bowl and toss at once with 1 tbsp sesame oil, turning until every strand is lightly coated. Set aside. The noodles should glisten and slide freely against one another — no clumping.
3. 3
   Place the sesame paste in a bowl. Add the sesame oil a spoonful at a time, working it in with a spoon or small whisk after each addition. Continue until the paste loosens to a pourable, ribbon-like consistency. Do not use water at any stage — water makes the paste grainy and broken. This is where the dish lives or dies: a smooth, glossy, fully emulsified paste is the binding agent around which every other element coheres.
4. 4
   Add the chili oil, Sichuan pepper oil, soy sauce, Chinkiang black vinegar, sugar, and minced garlic to the loosened sesame paste. Stir to combine. Taste: the dressing should be assertively nutty, hot, numbing, sour, and savoury in equal measure. Adjust any single element — a few drops more vinegar, a little more chili oil — until all five dimensions are present and no single note dominates.
5. 5
   Immediately before serving, pour the dressing over the noodles and toss thoroughly to coat every strand. Divide between four bowls. Arrange the julienned cucumber and carrot over the top. The dressed noodles should be glossy and uniformly coated; the vegetables should provide a clean, fresh scent against the deep nuttiness of the sauce.