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1
Thin the sesame paste with a small amount of water or noodle cooking water, stirring until it flows freely and will coat noodles without clumping. The paste should fall from a spoon in a slow, even ribbon.
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2
Build the sauce directly in each serving bowl: combine the thinned sesame paste, chili oil, Sichuan pepper oil, soy sauce, and ya cai. If using, add a splash of black vinegar. Do not heat; the sauce is assembled cold in the bowl and the hot noodles will warm it.
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3
Heat the oil in a wok over high heat. Add the doubanjiang and stir-fry until the oil runs red and fragrant. Add the ground pork and press it flat against the wok. This is where the dish lives or dies: the pork must be cooked hard and long enough to become crispy-fried in its own fat and the doubanjiang — not grey and steamed. Stir and press repeatedly until the meat is deeply coloured and the individual grains are distinct and crisp. Finish with soy sauce and toss once. The wok will smell of toasted chili and caramelised pork.
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4
Cook the noodles in a large pot of unsalted boiling water according to their type, stirring to keep them separate. Drain thoroughly — excess water will dilute the sauce.
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5
Place the hot noodles directly on top of the sauce in each bowl. Spoon the crispy pork topping over the noodles. Serve immediately; the diner mixes bowl and noodles at the table until the sauce coats every strand and the ma-la (numbing-spicy) aroma rises.