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1
Roast the aubergines directly over a gas flame or under a very high grill, turning occasionally, until the skin is fully charred and blackened on all sides and the flesh collapses completely when pressed — the interior must be cooked through to the centre with no firmness remaining. Alternatively, steam the aubergines until entirely tender throughout. If steamed, drain in a colander and press gently to expel as much liquid as possible; do not skip this step, or the dressing will be diluted.
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2
Peel away and discard the charred or steamed skin. Lay the flesh on a chopping board. Using a wooden rolling pin or wooden club, beat the aubergine firmly and repeatedly along its length — do not chop. Continue beating until the flesh breaks down into coarse, fibrous strands. The dish lives or dies here: chopping destroys the characteristic pulled texture that allows the dressing to be absorbed in the manner specific to this preparation.
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3
Pull the beaten aubergine apart by hand into long strands and arrange on a serving plate. The texture should be fibrous and open, not a smooth purée.
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4
Combine the sesame paste, Sichuan chilli oil, rice vinegar, and minced garlic in a small bowl. Stir until the dressing is cohesive and evenly combined. Taste: it should carry the layered quality of the Sichuan cold-dish pantry — sesame richness, chilli heat, and a clean sour note in balance.
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5
Spoon the dressing over the aubergine strands immediately before serving — not before. Scatter the spring onion and toasted sesame seeds over the top. The dressed dish should be brought to the table at once; beaten aubergine oxidises and becomes waterlogged if left to sit in the dressing.