Sichuan Spiced Cucumber (Suan La Huang Gua / 酸辣黄瓜)

Ingredients

• 2 cucumbers, smashed with the flat of a cleaver, then broken into irregular pieces
• 1 tsp fine salt, for draining
• For the dressing
• 2 garlic cloves, fresh, finely minced
• 1 tbsp Zhenjiang vinegar
• 2 tbsp chilli oil, good quality, with sediment
• 1 tsp sesame oil
• ½ tsp Sichuan pepper (hua jiao), toasted and freshly ground
• 1 tsp sugar

Method

1. 1
   Halve each cucumber lengthwise. Lay the flat side down and whack firmly along the length with the flat of a cleaver until the flesh cracks open with irregular, splintered edges. Break or cut the smashed cucumber into roughly 4 cm pieces. The surface should be ragged and porous, never smooth — this is what the dish requires.
2. 2
   Toss the pieces with the fine salt in a colander or bowl. Leave to drain for 10 minutes. The flesh will firm slightly and a quantity of water will be expelled. Tip away all liquid before dressing.
3. 3
   Toast the Sichuan pepper in a dry pan over moderate heat until fragrant, then grind to a coarse powder. Combine the ground Sichuan pepper with the minced garlic, Zhenjiang vinegar, chilli oil, sesame oil, and sugar. Stir until the sugar dissolves — the dressing should smell sharp, garlicky, and deeply aromatic.
4. 4
   Immediately before serving, pour the dressing over the drained cucumber and toss to coat every piece. Serve at once — left in the dressing, the pieces become waterlogged and the brightness of the vinegar and garlic is lost.