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1
Bring a large volume of unsalted water to a full rolling boil. Add the dried soba noodles and cook for 3–4 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent clumping. The noodle is done when it is firm with a slight chew — the soba equivalent of al dente. Do not extend cooking; a mushy noodle cannot be recovered.
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2
Immediately drain the noodles and transfer them to a large basin of cold water. Rinse by rubbing the noodles between the palms in repeated changes of cold water until the water runs clear and no surface starch remains. Insufficient rinsing leaves the noodles sticky and unbalances the tsuyu. The noodles are ready when they feel smooth and separate cleanly.
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3
Drain the rinsed noodles thoroughly and arrange on a bamboo zaru or chilled plate. Serve immediately: soba continues hydrating in its own residual moisture and must be eaten within five minutes of service. The eating window for peak buckwheat fragrance — a roasted-grain, faintly earthy aroma — is narrow and closes quickly.
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4
Set the cold tsuyu in individual dipping cups alongside the three condiments — wasabi, grated daikon, scallions — separately arranged. The classic progression: taste one bare noodle first, then dip with wasabi alone, then with wasabi, daikon, and scallion combined. Dip each mouthful to one-third of the noodle's length only; full submersion overwhelms the buckwheat's character.
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5
At the meal's end, pour the reserved sobayu — the cloudy, starch-laden cooking water — into the remaining tsuyu in each cup. The combined liquid should appear lightly opaque and warm. Drink as a closing course: this is the ritual sobayu finish of the traditional soba counter.