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1
Combine the flour, eggs, cold water or milk, salt, and nutmeg in a bowl. Beat vigorously until the batter is smooth and elastic. It should flow reluctantly from a spoon — thick enough to hold its shape briefly, thin enough to be forced through a perforated surface. Rest the batter for 30 minutes; the gluten relaxes and the texture of the finished dumpling improves noticeably.
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2
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a steady simmer — not a rolling boil, which would tear the dumplings. Hold a spätzle board over the pot, spread a thin layer of batter across its wet surface, and scrape small strips directly into the water with a palette knife or dough scraper. Alternatively, press the batter in batches through a colander, potato ricer with large holes, or a purpose-built spätzle press. Work in batches; do not crowd the pot.
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3
This is where the dish lives or dies: the dumplings will sink on entry, then rise to the surface within 2 to 3 minutes. The moment they float, they are cooked — remove them immediately with a spider. Left longer, they turn soft and mushy; removed too soon, they are dense and doughy. Drain well.
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4
Melt the butter in a wide pan over medium-high heat until it foams. Add the drained spätzle in a single layer and toss for 3 to 4 minutes. The goal is not uniform browning but irregular crisping — some surfaces should turn golden and lightly crisp while the centres remain soft and chewy. Season with salt and white pepper. The contrast of textures is the defining quality of the Alsatian finish.
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5
Transfer to a warm serving dish and scatter with finely sliced chives or fried onions. Serve immediately alongside a braised or sauced preparation.