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1
Make the recado rojo. Toast the achiote seeds, cumin, allspice, black pepper, and oregano in a dry pan over medium heat until fragrant. Transfer to a mortar or spice grinder with the garlic and vinegar and grind to a smooth, thick paste. The paste should be uniformly dark red with no whole seeds remaining.
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2
Marinate the chicken. Coat the bone-in, skin-on chicken pieces thoroughly in the recado rojo paste, working it into all surfaces. Add the sliced onion, smashed garlic, cilantro, and Worcestershire sauce. Cover and refrigerate overnight — a minimum of eight hours. The pieces should be deeply stained, with the paste adhering firmly.
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3
Brown the chicken. Remove the pieces from the marinade, reserving the marinade solids. Heat the oil in a heavy-based pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown the chicken pieces in batches, skin side down first, until the exterior is deeply coloured and the skin is no longer pale — this is where the dish lives or dies; insufficiently browned chicken will produce a flat, poorly coloured stew that lacks the depth the dish requires.
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4
Braise the chicken. Return all browned chicken to the pot. Add the reserved marinade solids and enough water to partially submerge the pieces. Bring to a simmer, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 45 minutes to 1 hour. The chicken is done when the meat is fall-off-bone tender and yields completely to gentle pressure.
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5
Reduce the sauce. Uncover the pot and raise the heat to medium. Allow the braising liquid to reduce, stirring occasionally, until it reaches a coating consistency — it should cling to the chicken pieces and coat a spoon, not pool as thin soup. The colour should be a deep, rich orange-red.