Suadero (Mexico City slow-cooked brisket taco)

Ingredients

• 800 g suadero, abdominal plate cut, between skin and muscle; ask the butcher specifically for suadero — brisket is not a substitute
• 500 g lard, enough to submerge or nearly submerge the meat in the pan
• For the taco
• 16 small corn tortillas, 10–12 cm; fresh; doubled per taco for structural integrity
• 1 bunch fresh cilantro, leaves picked, roughly chopped
• 1 medium white onion, finely diced
• 4 limes, halved
• For the salsa verde
• 300 g tomatillos, husked
• 2 serrano chillies
• 1 small bunch fresh cilantro, for the salsa

Method

1. 1
   Place the suadero in a large flat pan — a copper or steel carnitas pan is ideal, already seasoned with lard from previous batches. Add the lard and set over low heat. The fat should melt and gently envelop the meat; there should be no aggressive bubbling. Hold at this temperature, turning the meat occasionally, until the suadero is fully tender and yields without resistance when pressed — the collagen and fat will have rendered through, leaving the flesh soft and gelatinous.
2. 2
   This is where the dish lives or dies. Once tender, raise the heat beneath the pan. The residual lard will begin to sizzle actively. Allow the suadero to sit undisturbed until the underside develops a crisp, browned edge, then turn. The goal is a caramelised exterior while the interior remains soft — if heat is applied from the beginning, the exterior chars before the interior renders; if the heat is never raised, the characteristic crisp is absent. The sound shifts from a low murmur to a steady, assertive fry.
3. 3
   Transfer the crisped suadero to a board. Cut into 1–2 cm irregular chunks — not slices, not uniform cubes. Return them briefly to the pan to coat in the residual cooking fat. Do not drain completely; the fat is part of the flavour. The pieces should glisten.
4. 4
   While the meat rests, prepare the salsa verde. Blister the tomatillos and serrano chillies directly in a dry pan or under a grill until charred in patches and fully soft. Blend with cilantro and a pinch of salt to a loose, textured salsa. The colour should be a vivid, slightly smoky green.
5. 5
   Warm the corn tortillas on a dry comal or flat pan until pliable and faintly toasted — they should be soft enough to fold without cracking. Double each tortilla. The surface should feel warm and slightly yielding to the touch, not brittle.
6. 6
   Assemble immediately. Spoon the suadero chunks onto the doubled tortillas. Top with finely diced white onion and cilantro. Serve the salsa verde and lime halves alongside. The taco should be eaten at once — the tortilla will begin to soften under the juicy filling within minutes.