Tajarin al Sugo d'Arrosto — Fine Egg Pasta with Roast Meat Jus

Ingredients

• For the tajarin dough
• 1 kg 00 flour
• 30 (yolks) egg yolks, yolks only — no whole eggs, no water; 20 yolks per kg for standard tajarin, up to 40 for exceptional richness and colour
• For the sugo d'arrosto
• 1 glass (approx. 150 ml) dry white wine, added to the hot roasting pan after the roast is removed
• 100 ml light broth, beef, veal, or chicken; used to deglaze alongside the wine
• 30 g cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces; for mounting the finished sugo

Method

1. 1
   Mound the flour on a work surface and make a wide well. Add all the egg yolks to the well. Work the yolks into the flour gradually from the inner edge, incorporating until a rough mass forms. The dough will be very stiff from the first minute — this is correct. Knead with sustained pressure for a minimum of 15 minutes. The dough is ready when the surface is perfectly smooth and no longer tears under a firm thumb.
2. 2
   Wrap the dough tightly and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. It will relax perceptibly; a finger pressed into the surface should leave an impression that holds without springing back.
3. 3
   Divide the dough into manageable portions. Pass each through a pasta machine, progressing through every setting to the finest. The sheet at the final setting should be almost translucent — hold it to the light and a hand placed behind it should be visible through the dough. This is where the dish lives or dies: a sheet rolled any thicker will produce a pasta too coarse to carry the sugo with the required delicacy.
4. 4
   Lay the sheets on a clean cloth and dry for 15 minutes. The surface should feel dry to the touch but the sheet must remain pliable; a sheet that cracks when folded has dried too long.
5. 5
   Roll each sheet loosely into a cylinder. With a sharp knife, slice straight across into ribbons of 2 mm. Unravel the ribbons immediately onto the cloth and separate gently. Each strand should be even in width and fine enough to curl loosely under its own weight.
6. 6
   To make the sugo d'arrosto: with the roast removed and the pan still hot over the heat, pour in the white wine. Scrape every browned bit from the base of the pan with a wooden spoon — the crust dissolving into the liquid is the sugo's flavour. Add the broth. Reduce over moderate heat until the liquid reaches a lightly syrupy consistency that coats the spoon in a thin, glossy film.
7. 7
   Remove the pan from the heat. Add the cold butter in pieces, swirling the pan continuously until fully incorporated. The sugo should be glossy, lightly thickened, and hold together as a unified sauce rather than separating into fat and liquid.
8. 8
   Cook the tajarin in abundant well-salted boiling water for 2–3 minutes. Drain, leaving a little cooking water clinging to the strands. Dress immediately with the sugo, tossing gently. Each ribbon should carry a thin, even veil of sauce — no pooling, no dryness. Serve at once.