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1
Beat the eggs thoroughly until the yolks and whites are fully homogeneous. Pass the beaten eggs through a fine sieve to remove the chalazae. Add the dashi, soy, and mirin (and sugar if making the Kansai version) and stir to combine. The mixture should be entirely uniform in colour — any white streaks indicate insufficient beating or straining.
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2
Place the tamagoyaki pan over medium heat and oil it lightly. Test the temperature by dropping a small amount of egg mixture into the pan: it should set in approximately 3 seconds. Slower means the pan is too cool; faster means it is too hot. Adjust heat before proceeding.
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3
Pour the first of 3–4 equal portions of the egg mixture into the pan, tilting to coat the base. Allow the egg to set partially — the edges and base are firm but the surface remains visibly wet. This is the condition that allows the layers to bond during rolling. This is where the dish lives or dies: egg that is fully set before rolling will not bond to the next layer, and the omelette will separate when cut.
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4
Working quickly, roll the partially set egg toward one end of the pan using chopsticks or a spatula, forming a compact cylinder. Push the roll to the far end. Oil the exposed pan surface, then pour the next portion of egg beneath and around the existing roll, tilting the pan so the fresh egg flows under it. Allow this layer to set to the same partially-wet state, then roll the entire cylinder back over the new layer. Repeat with the remaining pours. The completed roll should feel firm but with slight give — not rigid — when pressed gently.
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5
Remove the completed roll from the pan. The exterior should be gold-yellow throughout with no tan or brown patches — uniform colour indicates correct heat throughout cooking. While still hot, place the roll on a bamboo mat (makisu) or wrap tightly in plastic wrap and press into a clean rectangular block. Hold until cool. When unwrapped or unrolled from the mat, the omelette will hold its rectangular form.
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6
Slice across the roll to serve. The cross-section should show clean, distinct strata — the visible layers are the mark of correct technique. The texture should be tender and just set, neither rubbery nor wet.