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1
Combine the flour and salt in a bowl. Add the white wine and olive oil. Bring together into a rough mass, then turn out and knead until the dough is smooth and pliable — approximately 8–10 minutes. If making the fennel variation, incorporate the seeds during kneading. Cover and rest for 30 minutes. The dough should feel supple and hold its shape without sticking.
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2
Divide the dough into small portions. Roll each into a rope approximately 1 cm thick and 12 cm long. Join the ends firmly to form a ring of roughly 6 cm diameter, pressing the join so it does not open during poaching. Alternatively, cross two shorter ropes to form figure-8 shapes. Lay the formed pieces on a lightly floured surface.
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3
Bring a large pot of unsalted water to a full boil. Lower the taralli in batches — do not crowd the pot. Poach for 3–4 minutes. This is the step on which the dish lives or dies: the poaching sets the starch and gives taralli their defining dense, shatter-crisp texture; taralli that have not been poached will bake to an entirely different, inferior character. Remove each piece the moment it floats and holds at the surface.
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4
Transfer the poached taralli to a wire rack set over a tray. Leave to dry at room temperature for at least 2 hours. The surface must be completely dry to the touch — no tacky or damp patches — before the oven is used. Any remaining surface moisture will generate steam in the oven, softening the interior from within.
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5
Heat the oven to 160 °C. Arrange the dried taralli on lined baking sheets, not touching. Bake for 35–40 minutes until uniformly golden and fully dried through. Test by removing one piece and snapping it: it must break cleanly with no bend. A high oven temperature leaves the interior doughy; low and slow is the only means of drying the rings through to their centre.
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6
Transfer to a rack and cool completely before storing. The taralli will continue to firm as they cool. Stored in an airtight container they remain crisp for 3–4 weeks — the complete elimination of moisture during baking is the preservation mechanism.