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1
Place the wings in a non-reactive container. Combine the soy sauce, sake, ginger and garlic; pour over the wings and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate overnight. The marinade should penetrate to the bone, deepening flavour throughout the joint and cartilage.
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2
Lift the wings from the marinade and lay them on a wire rack set over a tray. Pat thoroughly dry with paper towels. Allow to air-dry, uncovered, for at least 30 minutes. The surface must feel papery and completely dry to the touch — any residual moisture will create steam in the oil and prevent crisping.
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3
Dredge the dried wings evenly in katakuriko, pressing the starch firmly into the skin. Shake off any excess. The coating should appear thin, matte and uniform — not clumped — which is the condition that produces the glassy, hard crust specific to this style.
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4
Heat the oil in a deep, heavy pan to 165 °C, confirmed on a thermometer. Working in uncrowded batches — wings in a single layer only — lower the wings into the oil. Fry for 8 minutes, turning once at the midpoint. The wings should emerge pale gold, cooked through but not yet crisp. Remove to a clean rack and rest for 5 minutes. This rest allows internal steam to dissipate; it is not optional.
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5
This is where the dish lives or dies. Raise the oil temperature to 190 °C. Return the rested wings to the oil in the same uncrowded batches and fry for 2–3 minutes. Watch the surface: the coating must blister, tighten and turn a deep amber that is audibly hard when tapped with tongs. Remove immediately to the rack. Oil held below 190 °C will not achieve the Nagoya texture; oil that drops from crowding will stall the crust at merely cooked rather than glass-hard.
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6
Combine the soy sauce, sake, mirin and sugar in a small bowl. Heat a wide, heavy pan over high heat until smoking. Add the sauce mixture — it should reduce and tighten within 90 seconds to a thick, glossy glaze. Add the hot wings and toss continuously until every surface is lacquered and the sugar has caramelised to a dark, fragrant coat. Remove from the heat and scatter with sesame seeds and togarashi. The sauce should cling without pooling.
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7
Serve immediately. At the table: hold the wing vertically, rotate the thinner bone (ulna) 360° to free it from the cartilage, then pull cleanly upward. Repeat with the second bone. Both should extract in two motions, leaving a single boneless piece. The joint cartilage remains with the meat and is considered the premium eating.