For creamy version: stir in nam prik pao and coconut milk, bring back to heat but do not boil.
Nam prik pao (Thai roasted chilli paste) adds smokiness, sweetness from caramelised shrimp paste, and complex bitterness from the roasted chillies. Full-fat coconut milk is essential — the fat creates the emulsified creamy texture. Boiling after adding coconut milk causes the fat to separate and rise to the surface, breaking the emulsion and leaving an oily, unappetising appearance.