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1
Grind the dry garlic chutney. In a dry pan over low heat, toast the dried garlic, dried coconut, and dried red chillies separately so that each ingredient releases its own oils and colours without the faster-charring ones scorching the slower ones. Transfer to a spice grinder with the salt and grind to a coarse, dry powder — not a paste — until it pours freely from the grinder as a rust-red, granular powder. Store in a sealed jar; it deepens in flavour over two to three weeks.
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2
Grind the green chutney. Combine the coriander, green chillies, salt, and the minimum quantity of water in a blender and grind to a thick paste, adding no more water than necessary so the chutney holds its shape on a spoon and does not run — if it pours, it will drip from the assembled pav rather than staying in place. The chutney is ready when it mounds on the spoon without slipping.
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3
Make the potato filling. Heat a small quantity of oil in a pan, add the mustard seeds, and let them pop fully before adding the curry leaves and broken dried chillies, so the seeds lose their raw, harsh edge and become nutty — unpopped seeds will taste bitter in the finished vada. Cook for ten seconds, add the turmeric, and immediately fold in the mashed potato and salt, mixing until the spices are evenly distributed. Remove from the heat and allow to cool completely before shaping; the filling is ready when it holds a ball without cracking.
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4
Shape the cooled filling into eight equal balls, each the diameter of the pav when pressed lightly flat, so the vada fills the roll edge to edge and does not leave bread at every bite.
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5
Make the besan batter. Whisk together the besan, turmeric, salt, and cold water until smooth, using cold water so the batter stays loose and fluid rather than thickening before use. The batter must be thin enough that when a potato ball is dipped and lifted, the underlying yellow of the potato is just visible through the coating — a thick, opaque coating at this stage will produce a doughy, starchy crust.
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6
Heat the oil in a deep pan to 180 °C. Dip each potato ball in the batter, letting the excess fall back into the bowl so the coating is even and not pooled at the base, and lower gently into the oil. Fry four at a time for three to four minutes, turning once, until the crust is an even, pale golden-yellow and sounds hollow when tapped; crowding the pan drops the temperature and the vada will absorb oil rather than sealing. Fry the whole green chillies in the same oil for thirty seconds, then remove everything on to a wire rack — not paper, which traps steam and softens the crust.
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7
Warm the pav on a tawa or flat pan over medium heat with a smear of butter on the cut interior faces, pressing each roll lightly until the face is just golden at the edges, so the butter crisps the surface just enough to hold the chutneys without letting them soak straight through. Cold pav is not acceptable at assembly.
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8
Assemble immediately. Spread the dry garlic chutney generously on both interior faces of the pav, then spread the green chutney on one face and the tamarind chutney on the other so each bite carries all three flavours at once. Place the hot vada in the centre, close the pav, and serve at once with the fried green chillies alongside — the textural contract between crisp vada, soft pav, and the three-chutney architecture holds only in the first minutes after assembly.