Veal Stew with Peas: Spezzatino

Ingredients

• 800 g veal shoulder or leg, cut into 2–3 cm irregular pieces
• 60 ml olive oil
• For the soffritto
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 1 stick celery, finely chopped
• 1 medium carrot, finely chopped
• 120 ml dry white wine
• 250 ml meat broth, light veal or chicken, warm
• 300 g peas, fresh-shelled or frozen
• 1 tsp fine salt
• 1 tsp black pepper, freshly ground

Method

1. 1
   Pat the veal pieces thoroughly dry. Season with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a wide, heavy pan over high heat. Brown the veal in 2–3 batches, ensuring no pieces touch; each batch requires direct pan contact on all sides. Remove each batch to a plate as it is done. The surface of each piece should be a deep, even mahogany.
2. 2
   Reduce the heat to medium. Without discarding the fat or cleaning the pan, add the onion, celery, and carrot to the fond left by the meat. Cook the soffritto, stirring frequently, until the onion is soft and translucent and the vegetables have begun to colour.
3. 3
   Raise the heat to medium-high. Pour in the white wine and stir, scraping up any fond adhering to the base of the pan. Allow the wine to reduce completely — it is ready when no sharp alcohol vapour rises and the pan is nearly dry again.
4. 4
   Return all the browned veal to the pan. Add enough warm broth to come partway up the meat. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover, and cook over low heat for approximately 45 minutes, or until the veal yields without resistance when pressed with a spoon.
5. 5
   Add the peas to the pan in the final 10 minutes of cooking. Cover and continue at a gentle simmer. The peas are done when they are tender but retain their bright green colour — grey-green signals they have cooked too long.
6. 6
   Taste the braising liquid and correct the seasoning. The sauce should be lightly bound — neither watery nor thick. Serve directly from the pan.