-
1
Set a wide, deep pan over medium heat and add the butter and olive oil together, so the butter's milk solids are protected from scorching by the oil and the two fats meld into a single, even cooking medium. When the butter has melted and the foam subsides, add the diced speck in a single layer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat begins to render and the speck colours lightly at the edges — the pan should smell of rendered smoked pork fat, and a small pool of fat will be visible.
-
2
Add the sliced onion to the rendered fat, so the onion absorbs the smoky pork fat as it softens and becomes the aromatic backbone of the braise rather than a raw, sharp presence. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring, until the onion is soft and translucent. It must not colour beyond pale gold.
-
3
Add the coarsely shredded savoy cabbage to the pan — it will appear to overflow, so turn it in the fat with tongs until it begins to wilt and reduces in volume sufficiently to fit. This is where the dish lives or dies: insufficient fat at this stage — from either a poorly rendered speck or too little olive oil — will cause the cabbage to steam rather than braise, losing the richness that defines the dish. Every leaf must be coated in the pork-fat mixture before the wine is added.
-
4
Pour in the white wine and raise the heat briefly until the sharp alcohol smell dissipates, so the wine contributes acidity and depth rather than a raw, vinegary edge to the finished braise. Reduce to a low simmer, cover the pan, and braise for 30 minutes, checking occasionally that there is sufficient liquid at the base of the pan. At 30 minutes the cabbage should be completely tender and yielding when pressed with a spoon.
-
5
Nestle the luganega chunks into the cabbage so they are surrounded and insulated by the braising mass, which keeps them moist and allows their juices to flow outward into the cabbage rather than evaporating into the air. Replace the lid and continue to braise over low heat for a further 10 minutes, until the sausage is heated through and has released its juices into the surrounding cabbage.
-
6
Remove the lid and raise the heat to medium, so the excess liquid evaporates and concentrates rather than leaving the finished dish thin and watery. Cook uncovered for a final 10 minutes, stirring gently once or twice, until the cabbage is glossy and concentrated rather than wet. The surface should appear moist but no liquid should pool when the pan is tilted.
-
7
Remove from the heat, replace the lid, and rest for 10 minutes before serving, so the cabbage draws back in the fat still moving in the pan and the flavours settle into an even, integrated whole. The cabbage will have absorbed the remaining fat and the dish will taste complete rather than sharp or flat.