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1
Mound the flour on a work surface, break the eggs into the centre, add the Marsala or Vino Cotto, and work everything together with a fork and then the heel of the hand until a cohesive dough forms. Knead firmly for 10 minutes, so the wine is absorbed completely and its alcohol softens the gluten rather than escaping as sharpness in the finished pasta. The dough is ready when it is smooth, elastic and carries no trace of raw alcohol on the nose.
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2
Shape the dough into a disc, wrap tightly and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes, so the gluten relaxes and the sheet will roll without springing back. After resting, divide into manageable portions and roll each through a pasta machine to under 1 mm — the thinnest setting on most machines — cutting into sheets sized to the baking dish. The sheets should be almost translucent when held to the light.
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3
Sweat the soffritto — onion, celery and carrot — in a wide pan over a low flame until soft and lightly golden, so its sweetness mellows and the rawness that would otherwise dominate the ragù cooks away. Add all finely chopped rigaglie (livers, hearts, combs) and raise the heat to medium, stirring steadily for 3–4 minutes until the offal loses its raw colour on all sides.
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4
Add the soaked, chopped dried porcini, then deglaze with dry white wine and allow the liquid to reduce completely, so the concentrated mushroom depth is drawn into the offal rather than sitting as a thin, watery layer around it. Continue to braise over a low heat, stirring occasionally, until the ragù bianco is fully cooked, cohesive and dry — no pooling liquid remains in the pan — because insufficient reduction will steam the layers during baking, producing a sodden interior rather than the firm, sliceable structure vincisgrassi demands. This is where the dish lives or dies: the ragù should hold its shape when a spoon is dragged across the base of the pan.
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5
Make the béchamel: melt the butter in a heavy saucepan, whisk in the flour and cook the roux for 2 minutes over a moderate heat, so the raw flour taste cooks out and the sauce will not taste chalky between the layers. Add the warmed milk in a steady stream, whisking constantly, then continue to cook and stir until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon and falls in a slow, heavy ribbon. Season with salt and nutmeg.
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6
Butter a deep baking dish generously, spread a thin layer of béchamel across the base so the first pasta sheet does not grip and tear on serving, then lay the first sheet over it. Spread a layer of ragù bianco, then a layer of béchamel, and repeat — pasta, ragù, béchamel — for at least six layers in total, finishing with a layer of béchamel only across the surface so the top seals and will colour evenly. Scatter the grated Parmigiano evenly over the top and dot with butter.
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7
Bake at 180 °C for 35–40 minutes, long enough for the layers to knit and set rather than merely heat through. The vincisgrassi is ready when the surface is deeply and evenly golden — not merely pale or spotted — and the interior is audibly bubbling at the sides of the dish.
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8
Remove from the oven and rest, uncovered, for 20 minutes before cutting, so the layers firm and bind and a knife drawn through the dish produces clean, stable portions without sliding. When pressed lightly at the centre, the layers should feel set and resist the finger.