Warabi Mochi and Kuzu Mochi Starch Gel Confections

Ingredients

• For the warabi mochi
• 100 g warabiko (bracken fern starch), natural; light brown-beige colour — not the white potato-starch imitation
• 500 ml water, cold, for dissolving the starch
• 60 g sugar
• For the kuzu mochi
• 100 g kuzu starch (kudzu root arrowroot), pearlescent, off-white; sourced from Yoshino or Nara region where quality is highest
• 500 ml water, cold, for dissolving the starch
• 40 g sugar
• To serve
• 60 g kinako (roasted soybean flour), sifted; the canonical topping for both preparations
• 100 ml kuromitsu (black sugar syrup), served at table, not poured in advance

Method

1. 1
   For the warabi mochi: dissolve the warabiko and sugar in cold water in a heavy saucepan, whisking until no lumps remain. The suspension will appear opaque and beige-brown — this colour is the first confirmation of authentic warabiko. Place over medium heat.
2. 2
   Stir the suspension continuously with a wooden spatula, reaching the base and corners of the pan. As heat builds, the mixture will thicken rapidly and begin to turn from opaque to translucent. This is the step on which the dish lives or dies: cook without pause, stirring constantly, until the mass is fully translucent and clear throughout, with no remaining white or cloudy patches, and begins to pull cleanly away from the sides of the pan. Under-cooked starch will not set; over-cooked starch becomes granular. The finished mass is glossy, cohesive, and deeply translucent — a dark, amber-tinged gel.
3. 3
   Pour immediately into a water-rinsed mould or shallow tray. Smooth the surface. Allow to cool at room temperature for one hour, then refrigerate for 30 minutes. The set mochi is firm enough to cut but yields immediately to pressure — it jiggles visibly when the tray is moved.
4. 4
   For the kuzu mochi: dissolve the kuzu starch and sugar in cold water in the same manner, ensuring no lumps remain. Cook over medium heat, stirring continuously, until the mass turns from milky-white to a pearlescent, translucent gel that clears completely and leaves the pan sides. Pour into a water-rinsed mould or shallow dish and allow to cool. For service in the Kyoto manner, set the dish in cold water with ice so the mochi chills completely — the presentation and temperature are integral.
5. 5
   To serve: cut each mochi into bite-sized pieces with a wetted knife or spatula. Dust generously with sifted kinako. Pass kuromitsu at the table in a small jug — it is poured by the diner at the moment of eating. Excess syrup poured in advance will make the delicate gel soggy.