Zoni: New Year Mochi Soup

Ingredients

• For the dashi (eastern zoni)
• 1 litre ichiban dashi, prepared to standard; kombu and katsuobushi
• 2 tbsp soy sauce
• 1 tbsp mirin
• For the mochi
• 8 pieces mochi, square, cut; broiled or grilled until exterior is lightly charred and interior is molten
• For the garnish (eastern zoni)
• 200 g chicken, sliced; or seafood as the regional variant
• For the Kyoto variant broth
• 1 litre dashi, prepared to standard
• 120 g shiro miso, white miso, dissolved in dashi
• For the Kyoto variant garnish
• 200 g satoimo (taro), peeled and prepared
• 1 medium carrot, sliced
• 1 medium daikon radish, sliced

Method

1. 1
   Prepare ichiban dashi to standard from kombu and katsuobushi. The finished stock must be clear and pale gold, free of any cloudiness.
2. 2
   For eastern zoni: season the dashi with soy sauce and mirin. For Kyoto zoni: dissolve shiro miso into the dashi off the boil; do not allow the miso broth to boil again or its character is lost. Taste: the broth must be clean and gently savoury — salt it no further at this stage.
3. 3
   Broil or grill the mochi pieces under direct heat. This is where the dish lives or dies: the exterior must develop a light char and a crisp, blistered shell while the interior turns completely molten. This charred layer is what prevents the mochi from dissolving immediately into the broth. Remove from heat the moment the skin blisters and begins to colour; the centre, pressed lightly, yields with no resistance.
4. 4
   For eastern zoni: poach the chicken or seafood gently in the seasoned dashi until just cooked through; the broth must remain clear throughout.
5. 5
   For Kyoto zoni: simmer satoimo, carrot, and daikon in the dashi until each piece is tender to a skewer but holds its shape.
6. 6
   Place two pieces of broiled mochi in each warmed bowl. Ladle the hot broth and garnishes over immediately. The mochi should be served and eaten without delay; it will begin to soften and swell in the hot liquid within moments.