Piedmont (Langhe and Monferrato tradition)
Piedmont's most beloved antipasto: salt-packed anchovies (Cantabrian if possible, Sicilian as the Italian alternative) desalted, filleted, and marinated in a rough salsa verde of chopped flat-leaf parsley, raw garlic, capers, and olive oil — no lemon, no vinegar in the original (the anchovies' preserved acidity is sufficient). Served piled on a small plate with good bread or alongside the full Piedmontese antipasto dell'insalata di carne cruda. The combination of the intensely salty, umami-rich anchovy against the fresh herb, garlic, and olive oil creates a concentrated flavour experience.
Intensely savoury, silky anchovy fillets in a fresh, raw-garlic-parsley olive oil — the complete umami and freshness spectrum in a single small plate
The anchovies must be properly desalted (minimum 30 minutes in cold water, changed twice) — inadequately desalted anchovies are brutally salty. The parsley must be freshly chopped (not wilted) — it provides the colour and fresh flavour. The garlic must be raw and very finely minced or grated — it should perfume the oil without being identifiable as distinct pieces. Olive oil must be abundant — the anchovies are swimming in the sauce, not merely dressed.
For the Piedmontese antipasto tradition: serve alongside bagna cauda (the warm anchovy-garlic dip) and carne cruda for the complete triumvirate of Langhese cold starters. The sauce improves after 30 minutes of resting as the garlic infuses the oil. For a more layered version: add a very few capers (Pantelleria salt-packed) and a small amount of crushed peperoncino.
Inadequate desalting — ruins the balance. Dried or wilted parsley — the dish requires fresh. Chunky garlic pieces — they are harsh raw; minced fine or grated on a microplane they are fragrant. Insufficient olive oil — the sauce must be abundant enough to almost submerge the fillets.
La Cucina Piemontese — Giovanni Goria