Tuscany — Soups & Stews Authority tier 2

Acquacotta Maremmana con Uovo e Pecorino

Tuscany

The ancient soup of the Maremma — literally 'cooked water' — built from whatever was available to the shepherd or woodcutter: onion and celery cooked long in olive oil until almost dissolved, then water added and cooked again, finished with a poached egg on a thick slice of stale bread and a grating of aged Pecorino. Some versions add wild mushrooms or tomato when available. The poverty of the ingredients contrasts with the depth of flavour achieved through technique.

Sweet onion broth, olive oil richness, runny yolk and salty Pecorino — a soup where water tastes of extraordinary depth because technique has extracted everything from simple ingredients

{"Cook the onion and celery in olive oil for 40 minutes until completely soft and sweet — this long cook is the foundation of the flavour","Season generously — the water needs to be well-salted to taste of something; seasoning is critical in a water-based soup","Place a thick slice of stale Maremman bread in the bowl before ladling the soup — it absorbs the onion broth and swells without dissolving","Poach the egg in the soup in the last 2 minutes — the white sets around the yolk; the yolk should break when pressed","Grate Pecorino Romano generously over the top — it dissolves partially into the hot soup and seasons the bread layer"}

{"Adding a strip of dried porcini to the water brings an earthiness that is the first enhancement beyond the strict poverty version","Chilli flakes or dried peperoncino added to the onion at the start is the Maremman shepherd's standard","The soup is ready when the onion has completely disappeared into the broth — individual onion identity is the sign of under-cooking"}

{"Rushing the onion and celery — 15-minute soffritto produces a completely different, shallower flavour","Thin bread that disintegrates into the soup — stale, thick Maremman or Tuscan bread that swells but holds its shape is essential","Under-seasoning — a water-based soup that is not aggressively seasoned tastes of nothing"}

La Cucina della Maremma — Pastori, Butteri e Sapori Antichi

{'cuisine': 'French', 'technique': "Soupe à l'oignon gratinée", 'connection': 'Caramelised onion soup with bread and cheese — the more elaborate French version of the same soup-over-bread-with-cheese concept'} {'cuisine': 'Spanish', 'technique': 'Sopa de ajo castellana', 'connection': 'Bread and garlic cooked in water or broth with poached egg — the Spanish peasant soup with the same poverty-food-elevated-by-technique philosophy'} {'cuisine': 'Portuguese', 'technique': 'Açorda alentejana', 'connection': 'Bread dissolved in olive oil and garlic water with a poached egg — the Portuguese version of the same ancient Mediterranean bread-in-water-with-egg tradition'}