Molise — the egg liaison technique for braised lamb is found throughout the Campobasso and Isernia provinces. The preparation is strongly associated with Easter and the spring lamb season, though frozen lamb has extended its availability year-round.
Agnello alla molisana is the definitive Molisani lamb preparation: young lamb pieces braised slowly with white wine, onion, and generous sweet peppers (peperoni), finished with an egg-lemon liaison (or egg-vinegar, depending on the household) that thickens the braising liquid to a silky, slightly acidic sauce without flour. The egg liaison applied off-heat is the technique that distinguishes the Molisani preparation — it gives the sauce a richness and body that is quite different from a plain wine-braised lamb. The preparation is made for Easter (agnello pasquale) and for Sunday lunch throughout the year.
Agnello alla molisana finishes in the bowl with a sauce that is silky and slightly golden from the egg, with the bright acidity of lemon running through the richness. The lamb is fall-off-the-bone tender; the peppers have softened to sweet, wine-perfumed ribbons. The egg liaison is the technique that elevates a simple braise into something refined.
Cut lamb shoulder or leg into 4-5cm pieces, bone in. Brown well on all sides in olive oil — deep colour on the lamb is essential for the final flavour. Add onion and sweet red peppers (cut in strips); soften 5 minutes. Add dry white wine; reduce by half. Add water to just cover; braise covered at low heat 1-1.5 hours until completely tender. Remove from heat. Beat 2 eggs with the juice of 1 lemon (or 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar) and a handful of chopped parsley. Stir into the braising liquid off heat — the heat of the liquid cooks the egg without scrambling it, thickening the sauce. Serve immediately.
The egg-vinegar version is considered older and more rustic than the egg-lemon; both are authentic. The peppers are essential to the Molisani identity — they both flavour the braise and provide texture alongside the lamb. Some Molisani households add a pinch of peperoncino with the sweet peppers for a gentle heat that plays against the egg liaison's richness.
Adding the egg liaison to boiling liquid — the egg scrambles rather than thickening smoothly. Under-browning the lamb — pale, steamed lamb produces a flat-tasting braise. Using lamb that is too young without fat — the fat in the lamb is what makes the braising liquid rich enough to support the egg liaison.
Anna Gosetti della Salda, Le Ricette Regionali Italiane; Slow Food Editore, Molise in Cucina