Sardinia — widespread, Easter and spring tradition
Roasted lamb shoulder with Sardinian globe artichokes (carciofi di Sardegna, smaller and more tender than the Roman variety) — a springtime preparation central to Sardinian Easter traditions. The artichokes are trimmed, halved, and added to the roasting pan around the lamb in the final 40 minutes, basting in the lamb's rendered fat. The combination of lamb fat absorbed into the artichoke's leaves and the artichoke's bitterness tempering the lamb's richness is the defining flavour balance. Wild mint (mentuccia) is used as the herb in the Sardinian tradition.
Lamb fat absorbed into artichoke leaves creates a combined richness-and-bitterness that is the taste of Sardinian spring; wild mint perfumes from within; the charred artichoke edges provide a smoky counterpoint to the pure lamb flavour
{"Use young Sardinian globe artichokes (very small, tender, requiring minimal trimming) — mature large artichokes become fibrous before the lamb finishes","Add artichokes in the final 40 minutes of the lamb's cook — they cook in the rendered lamb fat, not in water; longer time makes them mushy","Score the lamb shoulder before seasoning — fat renders more completely through scored skin","Wild mint (mentuccia sarda) rubbed inside the scored skin infuses the meat from within during roasting","Rest the lamb 15 minutes before carving — large joints lose significant moisture if carved immediately"}
{"A splash of Cannonau di Sardegna (the island's red wine) added to the roasting pan provides the acid that keeps the pan juices bright","The artichokes develop charred edges where they contact the pan — these charred areas are the most flavourful; don't discard","Young artichokes can be left with their stems, which are also edible after the outer fibers are removed","Serve the pan juices as the only sauce — strained and poured over the lamb and artichokes at the table"}
{"Adding artichokes at the start — they overcook before the lamb is done","Using large commercial artichokes — they require pre-cooking and don't fit the Sardinian preparation style","Insufficient lamb fat rendering — lamb shoulder must be started at higher temperature (220°C for 20 minutes) then reduced; otherwise the fat doesn't render","Skipping the wild mint — commercial mint is too aggressive; mentuccia sarda is mild and herbal, not peppermint-sweet"}
La Cucina Sarda (Newton Compton)