Abruzzo
Abruzzo's Easter lamb preparation: young lamb pieces braised in white wine, garlic, and rosemary, then finished with the classic Abruzzese 'cacio e ova' (cheese and egg) liaison — beaten egg yolks and Pecorino mixed off-heat into the hot braising juices to create a creamy, coagulated sauce that coats every piece of lamb. The egg and cheese thicken the braising liquid into a custardy, clinging sauce without a roux. The cacio e ova technique appears across Abruzzo as a sauce-finishing method for both vegetables and proteins.
Tender Easter lamb bathed in a custardy, Pecorino-rich egg sauce — fragrant with rosemary and white wine, with a dairy richness that is uniquely Abruzzese
The egg-cheese mixture must be added completely off-heat — the residual heat of the lamb and pan is sufficient to thicken the eggs without scrambling them. The pan must be tilted and the mixture stirred constantly during addition to prevent localised overheating. The Pecorino must be finely grated and the mixture whisked together before adding — this ensures even distribution. The lamb must be cooked through before the liaison is added — the cacio e ova is a finishing step, not a cooking medium.
The cacio e ova technique works for frittatas, braised artichokes, and asparagus in addition to lamb — it is Abruzzo's all-purpose creamy sauce principle. Remove the pan entirely from the stove and allow 30 seconds for the pan to cool slightly before adding the liaison — this gives a bigger safety margin against scrambling. A grating of lemon zest into the liaison adds brightness that cuts the egg richness.
Adding the egg mixture with the pan still on heat — produces scrambled egg chunks rather than a creamy sauce. Under-grating the Pecorino leaves lumps. Adding the mixture too fast prevents even coating. Using too much flour-based thickening earlier in the braise, which prevents the liaison from binding correctly.
La Cucina dell'Abruzzo — Accademia Italiana della Cucina