Rome, Lazio
Rome's grilled milk-fed lamb chops — abbacchio cutlets (from unweaned lamb) quickly grilled over charcoal until charred outside and pink inside, then eaten immediately while hot enough to burn the fingers ('scottadito' = burns the fingers). The preparation is complete in 5 minutes: young lamb requires no marinade; the quality of the charcoal, the freshness of the abbacchio, and the correct cooking time are the only variables. Served with lemon wedges and sometimes a side of cicoria ripassata.
Charred exterior; pink milk-lamb interior; smoky charcoal character; lemon brightness; must be eaten burning-hot
{"Abbacchio cutlets — each should be 1.5–2cm thick with the rib bone attached; pounded lightly to flatten the meat evenly","Coals must be at maximum heat with no flames — live coals, not gas; the char from wood charcoal is the flavour","Salt only immediately before grilling — any earlier and moisture is drawn out","Grill 2.5 minutes per side maximum — the meat should be charred outside, pink inside; 5 min total is the limit for abbacchio","Eat immediately — scottadito served cold is not the same dish; the burning-finger temperature is the experience"}
{"The bones are meant to be held while eating — the meat closest to the bone is the most flavorful part; using a fork removes the point of the dish","A drizzle of best olive oil on the charred surface at service is traditional and adds another layer","Rosemary sprigs thrown on the hot coals for the last minute of grilling perfumes the meat from the smoke","In Rome, scottadito are served without any sauce — lemon wedge is the only accompaniment"}
{"Older lamb — the abbacchio's white-pink meat stays tender at this rare temperature; older lamb is tough unless braised","Gas grill — the smoky char from wood charcoal is a flavour element; gas provides heat but not the aromatic quality","Over-cooking — abbacchio is served pink inside; grey-through lamb is incorrect and disappoints","Letting them cool before eating — scottadito waits for no one; service and eating must be simultaneous"}
Il Talismano della Felicità — Ada Boni