Málaga, Andalusia
The oldest of the Andalusian cold soups — predating tomato-based gazpacho by centuries, and in its nut and bread structure clearly revealing its Moorish ancestry. Ajoblanco is made from stale bread, raw blanched almonds, garlic, olive oil, vinegar, and ice water — blended to a smooth, creamy white soup that is simultaneously austere and intensely flavoured. Traditionally served with muscat grapes or sliced melon. The Moorish DNA is undeniable: almonds, bread, acid, and cool service. This is the food of Al-Andalus preserved in the white villages of Málaga's interior, particularly around Archez and Cómpeta.
Almonds must be blanched and peeled — no brown skin. The bread is soaked in water (not milk), squeezed dry, then blended with the almonds and raw garlic. The olive oil emulsifies the soup via slow addition with the blender running. Sherry vinegar provides the acid — use enough. Ice water achieves the correct consistency — add last. Strain through a fine sieve for the smooth texture essential to the dish.
The garlic quantity is personal but traditional recipes use significantly more garlic than most modern versions — sometimes 4-6 cloves per portion. The muscat grape garnish is not optional in the Málaga tradition — the grape's sweetness and juice against the savoury, slightly sharp soup is the complete experience. Pair with manzanilla or fino sherry.
Using almonds with skins — the texture becomes grainy and bitter. Not enough salt or vinegar — the soup tastes bland and fatty. Not straining — the texture difference between strained and unstrained ajoblanco is enormous. Serving too warm — must be well chilled.
The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden